YOU Magazine - March 2010 - The Fruits of SpringDiscovering the Best Fresh Fruit of the SeasonBy Kirk Leins
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The Fruits of Spring
Discovering the Best Fresh Fruit of the Season
By Kirk Leins


The Fruits of SpringDiscovering the Best Fresh Fruit of the SeasonBy Kirk Leins

All kinds of great things happen in spring. The weather warms, baseball season begins, and fresh produce comes alive. Please join me for a trip through the orchard, as we shop for and cook with some of my favorite springtime fruits.

Spring vegetables are a welcome change to the veggies in season during the fall and winter. While spring fruits don't represent nearly as dramatic of a change, they do give us a glimpse at the warm weather fruits that arrive during summer.

I'll try to explain...

Fall, in the world of fruit, is all about apples and pears that have hit their stride. They are wonderful specimens, but a far cry from the delicate yet succulent peaches and melons we were devouring just a month or so prior.

Once winter arrives, the only fruits hitting their stride are those of the citrus variety, such as oranges, grapefruits and tangerines. While they may be tasty, they don't offer much in terms of provoking frenzied excitement.

Then comes spring...

One of the things I always take notice of once winter turns to spring is how the produce in my home changes from fruits and vegetables that can be kept in bins or baskets, sometimes for up to a couple weeks or more, to those that must be eaten quickly or stored for only a few days in the fridge. Think about that for a second, not only for the practical sense it makes, but also for the symbolism it provides.

Fall and winter fruits are sturdy creatures, many times grown underground and built to withstand colder temperatures. Spring and summer fruits, on the other hand, were born in the sun and are far more delicate as a result. The transition between eating them is the culinary equivalent of boxing up your wool sweaters and heavy coats in order to make room in the closet for your "fun" clothes. While there isn't a wide abundance in the varieties of fruits that become available in spring, one thing is for sure. They are more vibrant than those we've been eating through the fall and winter.

Before we get started with our trip through the spring orchard, allow me to quickly address the importance of seasonal cooking, which is the reason I wanted to write this article in the first place.

We are lucky enough to live in a region of the world where most types of fresh produce are available throughout the entire year. However, this doesn't mean the available out-of-season produce is going to taste great, as much of it is either grown in greenhouses or shipped in from other countries. It's nice to have these fruits and vegetables at our disposal all year long, but buying them out-of-season can oftentimes lead to disappointment.

This is exactly why I, as well as most other chefs, focus our attention on produce that is currently in season when designing our dishes and menus. It's my opinion that home chefs should do the same. Prices are far more reasonable and the quality of the food you'll prepare will improve dramatically.

As a side note, if you have a weekly farmer's market in your area I suggest buying as much of your weekly produce from there as possible. Doing so not only means procuring high-quality in-season produce for fair prices, but it's also a great way to support local farmers. It is the epitome of a win/win situation.

RHUBARB (available April through July)
Okay, so I realize that rhubarb is a vegetable and not a fruit, but here's the deal. Because of its bitter taste, rhubarb takes some sweetening to make it edible. In other words, it's normally served in fruit-like applications. 

For me, rhubarb brings back a lot of childhood memories, as it was a perennial staple in my father's victory garden. With an abundance of rhubarb just outside our backdoor, my mother had to create ways to use it up.

When procuring your rhubarb, be sure to look for deep red-colored stalks, as they are sweeter and richer than lighter stalks. Also, make sure that the stalks are flat, and not curled or limp. Store your rhubarb in the crisper drawer of your refrigerator and plan on it staying fresh for at least several days.

Here is my favorite rhubarb recipe from my childhood.

Rhubarb Crisp (serves 4)

  • 4 C rhubarb, washed and cut into 1/4" pieces
  • 1 Tbsp granulated sugar
  • 1 C old-fashioned rolled oats
  • 1/3 C all-purpose flour
  • 1/3 C dark brown sugar
  • 1 Tsp cinnamon
  • 1/4 C unsalted butter, ice cold and cut into pieces

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a greased 7-8 inch-round casserole dish (at least 3-inches deep) toss the cut rhubarb with the granulated sugar.

In a separate bowl, add the oats, flour, brown sugar, and cinnamon. Using a large fork or pastry cutter, cut in the butter until all the ingredients are well blended and resemble small pebbles.

Evenly cover the rhubarb with the oat mixture and bake for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the fruit is bubbling and the top is crispy.

Serve in bowls with vanilla ice cream or sweetened whipped cream.

STRAWBERRIES (available April through July)
While many of you are seeing strawberries in your local markets all year long, you've probably noticed that for the better part of the year their sweetness leaves a lot to be desired. All this changes come April or May.

Look for strawberries that are plump, bright red and uniform in color, with no traces of green or yellow. The leafy tops should look fresh and green, and there should be no signs of mold or withering.

While thinking of recipes that utilize fresh strawberries, I couldn't decide on a favorite.  That's why I'm giving you two. The first is for a healthy breakfast smoothie that showcases the flavor of the strawberry by combining it with a touch of banana.

Breakfast Strawberry Smoothie (one serving)

  • 10 fresh strawberries, green tops removed
  • 1/2 of a large ripe banana, cut into pieces
  • 1 C freshly squeezed orange juice, or unfiltered apple juice
  • 3 Tbsp non-fat dry milk powder
  • 3 large ice cubes

Combine all the ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth.

Strawberry recipe number two is for one of my favorite quick desserts. It does contain alcohol, so it's not for the kiddies.

Fresh Strawberries with Sambuca and Black Pepper (serves 2 to 3)

  • 1 pint fresh strawberries, hulled and cut into 1/4-inch thick slices
  • 2 to 3 Tbsp Sambuca liqueur
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Vanilla gelato

In a bowl, combine strawberries with the Sambuca. Toss well and allow them to sit at room temperature for 15 minutes.

Scoop vanilla gelato into bowls and top with a desired amount of berries and liqueur. Freshly grind black pepper (course grounds) on top of the strawberries and serve.

I know it sounds weird, but trust me when I say that the combination of fresh strawberries, anise flavored Sambuca, and black pepper is quite sublime.

MANGO
Mango is available all year long, but starts to get really good once springtime arrives.  That said, I find we don't eat enough of it, as it is abundant in vitamin A and a great source of vitamin C. Not to mention the fact that it's pretty darn delicious.

My favorite thing to do with in-season mango is to eat it Latin style. For those unfamiliar, it would be nothing more than chunks of fresh mango, tossed with freshly squeezed limejuice and either Tapatillo sauce, or pure chili powder. It's an awesome snack, as well as the perfect accompaniment to a happy hour cocktail or beer.

When shopping for mangoes, look for firm but slightly yielding fruit with a sweet aroma. The skin should be unblemished and the color should either a yellowish-orange or red. Avoid overly green, grey or any shriveled looking mangoes.

But, the fact remains you still need a formal recipe for this wonderful fruit. How about this?

Mango-Curry Sauce (can accompany any grilled white meat or fish)

  • 1 large mango; peeled, seeded and cut into pieces
  • 1-inch knob ginger, peeled and grated
  • 3/4 C freshly squeezed orange juice
  • 1/4 C unseasoned rice wine vinegar
  • 1-2 Tsp curry powder
  • Kosher salt

In a food processor or a blender, add mango, ginger, orange juice, vinegar, curry powder, and a generous pinch of salt. Process the ingredients until smooth.

Transfer the sauce to a saucepot and heat over a low flame. Re-season if necessary and keep warm. Serve over any grilled white meat or fish.

Please notice that this sauce is not only super easy and versatile, it is 100% fat free!

PINEAPPLE (March through June)
I must say that pineapple is pretty darn good all-year round. Considering that it is technically a spring fruit, however, leaves me no choice but to put forth one of my favorite uses for pineapple outside of eating it plain.

When you shop for your pineapple, look for firm and plump specimens. It should have fresh green leaves and feel heavy for its size. It should also be quite fragrant.

Pineapple Salsa (makes 3½ to 4 C of salsa)

  • 2 C fresh pineapple; cut into ¼-inch dice
  • 1/2 of a medium-sized red onion, peeled and diced small
  • 1-2 jalapeño chilies; de-veined, seeded and diced small
  • 2 Roma tomatoes, seeded and chopped small
  • 1/4 C fresh cilantro, chopped
  • Juice of 1 lime
  • 1.5 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 Tsp Kosher salt

Place all the ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Allow the mixture to sit at room temperature for at least 15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve with tortilla chips, quesadillas, pizza, eggs, or as yet another topping for any grilled white meat or fish. 

APRICOTS (available June and July)
Apricots are really a late spring/early summer fruit, but their meaty goodness and succulence force me to include them in my springtime recipes. Eating them plain is great, as is turning them into jam, but I have to say that my favorite way to eat in-season apricots is as part of an elegant and light dessert.

Before I show you that dessert, let's talk about buying apricots. Look for fruit that is plump and firm, but yielding to the touch and velvety. Their color should be a bright, yellow-orange and uniform.

Broiled Apricots with Mascarpone Cheese and Mint (serves 4)

  • 8 apricots, split in half and seeded
  • 1.5 Tbsp dark brown sugar
  • 2 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted
  • 1/8 Tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1/4 C mascarpone cheese
  • Chopped fresh mint for garnish

Preheat broiler to high with rack set 4 to 5 inches from heat source.

In a rimmed baking dish, place apricots cut side up. Drizzle evenly with melted butter and sprinkle with brown sugar and cinnamon.

Place the dish under the broiler for 2 to 5 minutes, or until the apricots begin to char. Remove to shallow dishes and top with equal amounts of mascarpone cheese. Garnish with mint and serve.

Our trip through the springtime orchard has come to an end and that only means one thing. You need to get out there, find some spring fruit, and make these recipes. Not only will they add to your repertoire of home-cooked meals and dishes, but they're also the perfect vehicles for transporting yourself from winter into spring.

Kirk Leins has been cooking his entire life. No stranger to professional kitchens, he currently devotes most of his time to cooking instruction, food writing, and producing television. Kirk also provides his services as a personal chef in and around the Los Angeles area. He has made several TV appearances on both the national and local level, and is the Executive Chef for YOU Magazine. Sign up for Kirk's free newsletter and cooking blog at www.NoTimeToCookDinner.com.




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