For tomato lovers everywhere, the summer months mark the time of year when this wonderful fruit is at its absolute tastiest. Whether a summertime tomato is harvested from a backyard garden or purchased from a quality purveyor, it is simply one of the finest fresh ingredients available to nearly every home chef.

What is a Tomato?
Scientifically speaking, a tomato is a fruit and not a vegetable. This is because a true fruit is developed from the ovary in the base of the plant’s flower and contains the edible seeds of the plant. Carrots, broccoli, and lettuce develop differently as they do not have seeds within the part we eat and are therefore considered vegetables.

Within the plant world, tomatoes are members of the nightshade family (Solanaceae). While the nightshade family is responsible for other healthy offerings – such as potatoes, eggplant, and peppers – it also includes some very toxic plants like the deadly nightshade (belladonna). It’s a high concentration of alkaloids that makes belladonna, as well as the green foliage of most nightshade plants, so dangerous.

The irony here is that the production of alkaloids is a normal biochemical activity for most plants. Alkaloids contain nitrogen and actually help protect plants from being completely devoured by insects. The good news is when it comes to the food produced by nightshades, the alkaloid level is relatively low. However, these low levels do explain some people’s aversion to the aforementioned nightshade foods.

If you are sensitive to these types of foods, I recommend eating them in smaller doses and only when they are ripe. Ripening, along with cooking, dramatically reduces these already low alkaline levels. This probably explains why some people could never eat a raw green bell pepper but have no problem when a red bell pepper (a more ripened version) is sautéed in olive oil or fire-roasted over a hot grill.

Tomato History
There is some debate over the chronology of the tomato. Most historians believe its origins can be traced back to early South America, namely Peru. But since many historical recordings were lost after the arrival of the Europeans, it’s hard to say exactly when tomatoes first popped up.

Somehow, tomatoes managed to migrate north into Central America and Mexico sometime in the early 16th century. Once the Spanish began colonizing the Americas, the tomato spread worldwide as they brought the newfound fruit to their colonies in the Caribbean as well as the Philippines and Europe. Tomatoes grew quite easily in Mediterranean-type climates, and by the mid-1500s they began making their way through Europe, starting with Spain and Italy.

Tomatoes weren’t seen in British North America until the early 1700s, in the area now known as South Carolina. Many believe the fruit came to us via the Caribbean as opposed to any of our neighbors from the south. Regardless, by the mid-1700s, tomatoes were being cultivated throughout what is now the southern United States.

During this time, many people actually thought the tomato was poisonous and, in turn, used it more as an ornamental plant. This misinformation was most likely due to the scientific finding (by the British) of high alkaloid concentrations within the stems and leaves of the plant, not the tomato itself. It wasn’t until the late 1700s that more traveled Americans, like Thomas Jefferson, visited Paris and came back raving about the deliciousness of the tomato.

Speaking of Paris, I find it slightly ironic that the gastronomically advanced French really didn’t begin experimenting with tomatoes until the late 18th century – and they have the Italians to thank for it! It was the Italians who brought the tomato into Provence, and from there it took off, as its bright red color became an edible symbol of the French Revolution. Nonetheless, it is now the 21st century and the whole world loves tomatoes.
 
Types of Tomatoes
There are literally thousands of different cultivars of tomatoes. Not to digress but the word “cultivar” is actually a portmanteau, or combination of the words “cultivated” and “variety”. In plain English, cultivar simply refers to one variety of any cultivated plant.

Like many other plants, each tomato cultivar grows better in specific climates as well as during specific times of the year. As opposed to attempting to break down every cultivar, I thought I’d take a few moments to talk about a few broader tomato classifications.

Cherry and Grape Tomatoes
At one end of the size spectrum, we have cherry tomatoes and their diminutive cousin, the grape tomato. Averaging 2 to 3 centimeters in diameter, these tomatoes are widely available and extremely underrated. Many versions are actually sold still on the vine. They generally have an outstanding sweet, tomato taste and are perfect for many different salads. I’ll show you one of my favorite salads later in the article.

Beefsteak Tomatoes
On the other end of the spectrum are beefsteak tomatoes that exceed 10 centimeters in diameter. These tomatoes, along with various smaller classifications, are also widely available but oftentimes lackluster in quality. The reason for this mediocrity has to do with modern technology.

Tomatoes in general go from perfectly ripe to rotten very quickly. So quickly, in fact, that it is very hard for large growers to transport their tomatoes without the fruit going south. For many, the solution is to pick the tomatoes while they’re still green and then ripen them artificially in an ethylene bath. This practice may make the tomatoes travel better but it results in the purchase of a virtually unripe piece of fruit.

My personal solution is to buy these larger tomatoes from either quality markets where they are sold still on the vine, or from vendors who set up stands by the roadside or inside of farmer’s markets. Tomatoes sold by these purveyors are not only vine-ripened, but they are also brought to market on a more regular basis and intended for quicker consumption. They are well worth any extra money they cost. But it’s important to know that when it comes to great taste at a low price, nothing beats a tomato that’s grown in a backyard garden.

Speaking of great taste, one classification of tomato that is turning up everywhere is known as an Heirloom. While they do vary in size and color, tomatoes tagged as Heirlooms share a few common traits. First and foremost, they must be naturally pollinated and have received no artificial genetic modifications. After that, however, there is much dispute over which tomatoes qualify. Most of the debate is either over how long the strain has been in existence, or the method in which the seeds were handed down. Regardless, if you can get your hands on Heirloom Tomatoes, I recommend doing so.

For any of these larger tomato varieties, I love slicing them thinly and using them on any burger or sandwich. My second recipe this month will be one of my favorite sandwiches featuring the tomato.

Plum Tomatoes
Tomatoes that are elongated (7-9 centimeters long and 4-5 centimeters wide) are known as plum tomatoes. These are also known as Roma tomatoes as they are popular throughout the Mediterranean. While they are tasty when allowed to vine-ripen, many stores receive their plum tomatoes on the unripe side.

Unless I can procure a high quality, fresh plum tomato, my personal preference is to buy them canned. If you want to do the same, you should look for plum tomatoes that are grown and packed in the San Marzano region of Italy, as these are some of the sweetest available. They are great for sauces, stews, and even quick blender salsas.

For the most part, when I cook with tomatoes as part of a dish, I prefer using canned rather than fresh as they produce a more consistent result. The only exception I’ll make is when I have an abundance of summertime tomatoes on hand and desperately need to use them up. My last recipe will show you how to do just that.

Cherry Tomato and Cucumber Salad (Serves 3 to 4) 

• 15-20 cherry or grape tomatoes, split in half lengthwise
• 1 English (hothouse) cucumber, split in half lengthwise, seeded with a spoon and cut into 1/4-inch slices
• Hand-torn basil leaves
• Crumbled goat cheese

For the dressing:

• 2 tbsp sherry vinegar
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 small shallot, minced fine or grated
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large bowl, mix together all the dressing ingredients. Add cucumber slices, tomato halves, and basil leaves, and toss to combine. Taste and adjust seasonings if necessary. Allow the salad to sit at room temperature for at least one hour. Liberally scatter crumbled goat cheese on top of salad and serve.

Note:  While the salad can be made ahead of time, it is at its best when eaten on the day it’s made.

The Ultimate B.L.T.A. (Makes 2 sandwiches)

• 4 slices of quality bread, very lightly toasted
• 4-6 slices of quality smoked bacon, fried crisp but not overcooked
• 4-6 thick slices of heirloom tomato
• 1 ripe Haas avocado, skinned and seeded
• 2 tsp fresh lemon juice
• 2-4 whole leaves of Butterleaf lettuce
• Real mayonnaise
• Kosher Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a bowl, combine avocado and lemon juice. Season the ingredients with salt and pepper, and mash well with a fork. Spread equal portions of avocado mixture on two slices of bread. Spread the remaining two slices of bread with mayonnaise. On the slices with the avocado, layer an equal number of tomato slices and season with salt and pepper. Top with an equal number of bacon slices, lettuce, and remaining slices of bread. Cut in half on the diagonal and serve.

Roasted Tomatoes with Shrimp and Tarragon (Serves 2 to 4)

• 1 1/2 lbs. medium-sized shrimp, peeled and de-veined
• 3 to 4 cups very ripe tomatoes, chopped
• 1/2 cup onion, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, chopped
• 1/4 cup Italian parsley, finely chopped (plus more for garnish)
• 1/4 cup fresh tarragon, finely chopped
• 3 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
• A large pinch of crushed red pepper
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat your oven’s broiler. Combine all of the ingredients, except shrimp, in a gratin dish or small casserole dish. Toss to fully combine and roast in broiler for 10 minutes. Remove dish from broiler, add shrimp, and toss again. Return dish to the broiler and roast until shrimp are pinkish and opaque, approximately 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from broiler, garnish with remaining parsley, and serve along with crusty bread.

Good luck and happy tomato season!

Kirk Leins has been cooking his entire life. No stranger to professional kitchens, he currently devotes most of his time to cooking instruction, food writing, and producing television. Kirk also provides his services as a personal chef in and around the Los Angeles area. He has made several TV appearances on both the national and local level, and is the Executive Chef for YOU Magazine. His free newsletter, The Everyday Gourmet, is available by contacting Kirk at EGcuisine@gmail.com.